Silk Making Step 1: Raising SilkWorms and Harvesting Cocoons

Silkworms are really not worms at all. silk worms are the larvae of ‘bombyx mori’ moths and silkworms are actually domesticated insects. native to china, the silkworm does not longer exist in the wild, after so many centuries of inbreeding the silkworm is incapable of flight, mates quickly after emerging from its crysalis, and dies a day or so after laying its eggs. Designboom illustrates the several stages of sericulture, which begins with hatching silkworm eggs ...

An ounce of silkworm eggs yields about 35,000 worms, during gestation, which lasts approximately three weeks, the eggs must stay between 25 and 31 °C, in a tray with high humidity. As they hatch, each of the tiny creatures must be carefully moved to a ‘petri dish’, a circular flat bamboo tray, to be fed with fresh mulberry leaves several times a day. When the baby silkworms emerge from their eggs, they are really tiny, about the size of a lowercase ‘i’, and almost black. From the moment they emerge they start eating with an enthusiasm that never abates. When designboom entered the farmer’s household we could hear them constantly chewing. The worms are protected from harmful flying insects by wrapping the trays in homespun cotton.

The newly born silkworm only eats mulberry leaves. a silk farmer must have a ready supply of mulberry leaves and fruits close at hand, even one missed feeding can kill the sericulture. there are times of the year when the mulberry leaves are not around... continued food shortages can decrease the quality of silk any survivors make. If there are shortages anyway, lettuce makes a decent emergency dish, as long as it is well-washed (pesticides kill) and dried thoroughly.

Despite revolutionary changes in methods of manufacture, the ultimate basis of silk remains the tiny, inconspicuous-looking silkworm and the most critical period in silk production comes during the silkworm’s brief life span of around 20/24 days. Nearly all silkworm-producing moths belong to the family ‘bombycidae’, of which one member, ‘bombyx mori’ is responsible for most of the world’s silk.

At the beginning every few days, the worms need to be moved to a clean tray with fresh food. Members of the farmer’s household must spend a growing amount of time to their bamboo trays, also because silkworms produce quite a lot of excrement and cleaning the trays is not a job for the weak-stomached. They continue feeding and moving the silkworms, dividing the colonies when the silkworms are too large or hungry for the numbers in that tray. by the fourth week, the largest of the silkworms will be more than 5 cm. long, fat, and hungry enough that they need to be fed every day.

An easy test confirms their readiness to cocooning. the farmer picks them up and looks between their rear pair of legs, from the underside. if there is a gray mass there, the caterpillar isn't quite ready, but if it's milky and translucent, the silkworm has pooped its last and is definitely ready. the worms suddenly stop eating and raise their heads - another sign that they are ready for the all-important job of spinning cocoons.

At that stage they are removed from their feeding trays.

The ‘bombyx mori’ worms are now inserted in a specially woven circular bamboo scaffolding, which will make the cocoons more uniform in shape and easier to collect.

Again, worms are protected from harmful flying insects by wrapping the trays with fine nets. There seems to be always a few dead silkworms in each tray. While a dramatic increase in the mortality rate is reason for concern, silkworms are insects, and farmers can expect that less than half of the silkworms will reach full maturity.

Each silkworm now doubles itself up on its back, and by contracting secretes, from an opening under its mouth, a steady stream of liquid silk, coated with sericin, which hardens on exposure to air. they're starting to lay out the support strands for their cocoons, although they may not yet be serious about cocooning.

Some of the larger caterpillars are climbing the walls of the tray (they've done this before, to shed their skins, but this time their heads are pointing toward the lid) and the busy silkworms are guided by figure of eight movements of their heads, to dispose the liquid silk in layers, forming the cocoon.

After some 36 hours, the worms are sealed within a yellow cocoon, embarked on the process of metamorphosing into a moth.


The worms have spun thousands of gossamer little cocoons.

The satisfactory cocoons are now in a clean tray. see the lustrous, golden color. Care must be taken not to damage them when removing from the old trays. The entire process, from silkworm egg to complete cocoon, takes about twenty-five days. Silk worms transform themselves, inside the cocoon, into a chrysalis and then into a butterfly...

Most of the cocoons are used for the next step in silk making but some of them leave the cocoon as a butterfly. It usually secretes a liquid onto the silk threads to dissolve them, so it can emerge. The new moths must be moved to another tray so the mess they make while mating and laying eggs doesn't get all over the hard-earned silkcocoons. the males (small) will die once the deed is done, while the females will stick around to lay about 200 - 300 eggs each.

Silk Making Step 2: Thread Extraction

The story of silk began more than four thousand years ago in the court of china’s first emperor. it is said that a young concubine named lei tsu, by way of experiment, has discovered the ‘finest natural textile thread known to man’. the art of waving silk, first restricted to members of the imperial court spread to lower levels of chinese society and achieved widespread fame. gradually a trade route to the west emerged. a tortuous passage known as ‘silk road’ wandered through hostile lands and ended thousands of miles away at market places in the middle east. for centuries only the chinese knew the secrets of silk production and the exportation of silkworms was strictly forbidden. around 140 BC silkworm eggs and and mulberry cuttings reached khotan, in present-day afghanistan, allegedly smuggled by a chinese princess who went to marry the king and found the prospect of a silkless life unbearable. from then it went to india and a century later to korea and japan; around the same time the art was moving south with chinese minority groups into present-day indo-china and thailand. Since then silk weaving is an integral part of north east thailand’s countless villages.

The fresh and fragile cocoons are ready to be scooped into the reeling pot. each cocoon consists of many yards of tightly woven silk thread.

Most steps of traditional silk making in thailand’s villages in the north-east are done by women and take place in open areas. in the reeling process, a special wooden device is used to locate the end of the filament, after which it must be carefully unwound, a process that not only requires hard work over a boiling pot, but also practiced skill to keep the threads unbroken. the village woman immerses the cocoons in boiling water to help soften the thick gum coating.

In the cultivation of silkworms, to not damage the continuity of the thread, the cocoons are placed in boiling water to kill the chrysalis.

It begins to unwind, forming an extraordinarily long thread of great strength yet as delicate as a spider’s web.

A spatula removes the outside layers of the cocoon, then, having found the end of the single cocoons.

The silk thread is rolled on a reel.

Silk thread

Detail of silk thread

After this process, the remaining, cooked silkworm will be eaten by the village youngsters. it contains a lot of protein ...

Thread

Silk Making Step 3: Dyeing


After washing and degumming, there is a bleaching (and drying) process before dyeing.


Most of the dyes are obtained from natural resources of the immediate sourrounding, offering an exquisite palette of different hues. these leaves of the wild indigo plant are a major source of natural black or blue, other colors are obtained from:
Yellow - jackfruit
Orange - bisea
Red - sappanwood
Maroon, pink and purple red - lac
Green - myrobalan
Grey - coconut
Blue-grey - eucalyptus
Green-grey - butterfly pea
Purple grey - simarubaceae
Brown - cutch
Khaki - mango and cutch ...


Dried indigo. all stages of the process are performed by the women of the village, from plant harvesting, through dye vat care, to the dyeing step itself.


The blue dye derived from crushing and composting the indigo plant. the natural fermentation process reduces the indigo in a vat changing the colour from yellow to green to blue after exposure to air. the only ingredients required are the indigo cake, soda ash, wheat bran and madder (an enzyme that creates the fermentation and deoxidizes the indigo).

The colour derived from soaking fabric in hot mixture of indigo leaves. The bundles of threads are soaked in the dye pots for several times over many days to achieve the proper color tone and quality. then the colours need to be fixed (roots of natural morinda germinata are reported to serve as a fixing agent). These traditional methods of dye production have elsewhere al most been driven to commercial extinction, and dyeing with synthetic indigo and a wide variety of other synthetic colors is booming.
Sin this study (conducted by professor wichai lailawitmongkhol -see intro page) the indigenous practices are documented and taught to the village people before they are completely lost.

After the process the threads are hanging out to dry.

Beautiful color variations of the yarn, ready for spinning onto bobbins.

Silk Making Step 4: spinning

Even today, despite the introduction of a wide range of new techniques, the traditional spinning wheelis still necessary for a variety of purposes. spinning wheels are used for unwinding dyed silk skeins onto bobbins for the warping process.

Bamboo spools.

Preparing the thread involves multiple steps.

The woman is winding the spool by the means of a hand crank.

Another threading step.

Bobbins.

Detail of bobbins with batch numbers.

The silk thread moves from the bobbins through a worker’s hands onto a spinning device.

The spinning device is powered by bycicle pedals and finishes the thread.

By passing through the hands the silk thread acquires a lustrious sheen.

Finalized silk thread, ready to be woven.

Each batch of thread is weight and sent to the looms.

Silk Making Step 5 : Weaving


Setting up the warp. the threads of each spool pass though suspended loops, then through holes in a warping paddle. the large warping board stands upright. The warp being drawn up and down as one works from left to right pegs. The end is slipped onto the warp beam and the whole spread evenly before being rolled onto the beam.

The weaving begins by pushing down the harness to separate the two sets of warp threads, leaving space to shoot the shuttle alternately back and forth.

The wooden loom is found beneath houses throughout north-eastern thailand, where silk-making is still a cottage industry. While there are some large factories near bangkok which make lower-end silk cloth, the finer silk is almost exclusively made by women working family-owned looms in their homes.

Weaving
The lengthwise threads of a woven material are called the ‘warp’. a lightweight silk fabric can have over 2,000 warp yarns. the weaver sends the wooden shuftle flying from side to side by pulling on a cord while simoultanously ‘beating up’ the weft yarn. the basic weaving technique uses the same or different colors in the warp and weft. some villages are experimenting with new designs and color combinations, yet still using their traditional techniques and basic patterns.

The weaver opens the warp by stepping on pedals. the hands and feet must work in perfect unison to enable the warp and weft yarns to interlace correctly.

The wooden loom

A village craftsman does the final braiding.

Silk scarves waiting for braiding.

Detail of unfinished silk scarf.

Finishing the silk scarves requires a lot of patience from the craftsmen.

Finishing the silk scarves - after beginning the braid, the craftsman rolls it on the leg.

Braids

Completed silk scarves.
 

Followers

ขับเคลื่อนโดย Blogger.

Thailand Silk Import And Export & Thai Silk Buyers

Site Info

จำนวนการดูหน้าเว็บรวม

Copyright © 2009 Blogger Template Designed by Thailand Silk Import And Export & Thai Silk Buyers